If there is any time during the year when Paris is at its most magical, it's during the month of December. During this time, the City of Lights is transformed into the Supreme Enchanted Fairytale City of Lights. December embraces alluring illuminations, charming Christmas markets, captivating concerts, whimsical artwork, and wintery wonderland activities like ice skating in some of the world's most sublime settings. But this month is not necessarily only about sugar & spice. It also brings about more brazen exhibitions, bohemian markets, and a few hip indie acts. My previous Ideal Social Calendars have always listed only 10 items, but with so much going on in Paris right now, I could not help offering less than 15 for the holiday edition. It is all about the spirit of giving, after all!
1 :: 16 NOV-6 JAN :: MARCHES DE NOEL DE PARIS
As I've written previously, there is no better way to get into the festive spirit of the season than with a visit to a Christmas market. And in Paris, there is no shortage of marvelous marchés to choose from. The largest and most popular is the Marché de Noël des Champs-Elysées, where 160 wooden chalets stretch from the Champs-Elysées roundabout to the Place de la Concorde. Surrounding you are glittering lights illuminating the entire avenue, the smell of roasted chestnuts and mulled wine, and sounds of people peeking into stalls for that unique handmade craft or winter pastry. Other personal favourites of mine include the Village du Père Noël de Saint-Germain-des-Près and the Marché de Noël Alsacien à la Gare de l'Est, which, as its name suggests, specialises in crafts and cuisine from the Alsace region. (For a complete list of Christmas markets in the city, click here. Each market has a different calendar, so double-check the dates before you go.)
2 :: 6 NOV-15 JAN :: CHRISTMAS DISPLAYS THROUGHOUT THE CITY
December is the perfect time to check out all of the gorgeous Christmas lights and decorations throughout the city. This is the time when the City of Lights is truly bathed in magical light and transformed into a fairytale setting. Places to stop by are the quintessential Galeries Lafayette, which has already set up its magnificent Christmas tree, the exquisite Christmas lights along the luxurious Avenue de Montaigne, and the decorations in the bejewelled centre of Place Vendôme. Oh, and don't forget to check out the giant Christmas tree at Place de la Concorde! (You can find the full list of quartiers illuminés here.)
3 :: 2-3 DEC :: SWAN LAKE @ PALAIS DES CONGRES
For me, the holiday season is never complete without seeing either Swan Lake or the Nutcracker. This year, Parisians are in luck as the Moscow Ballet Theatre is coming for two nights to perform Tchaikovsky's Le Lac des Cygnes (Swan Lake) at the Palais des Congrès. Ticket prices range from €47 to €59 each, but hurry up as the ballet starts soon!
4 :: 15-28 DEC :: CHRISTMAS CONCERTS INSIDE BREATHTAKING CHURCHES
If you love classical music and sublime settings, December is the month for you. There are a number of concerts (Christmas-themed and otherwise) that take place throughout the entire city. On top of my list are Vivaldi's Four Seasons at Sainte-Chapelle and the gorgeous Christmas concert at Notre-Dame (where they will be performing Britten's 'A Ceremony of Carols' as well as Binchois's dreamy Gregorian chants). I think these are probably two of the most exquisite settings in the world for a Christmas concert, and tickets range anywhere between €10 and €50. (For a full listing of Christmas concerts in Paris, click here.)
5 :: 21 NOV-25 MAR :: SALVADOR DALI @ CENTRE POMPIDOU
Christmas events aside, December is the first full month of the extraordinary Dali exhibition at the Centre Pompidou. This retrospective showcases 150 paintings by one of the world's most celebrated Surrealist artists. There are also a number of films and writings to supplement the artwork by this 20th-century Spanish painter, sculptor, engraver, and writer.
6 :: 27 NOV-28 APR :: LES MILLES ET UNE NUITS @ INSTITUT DU MONDE ARABE
This exhibition is perhaps as equally magical as Dali's, albeit in a completely different way. A Thousand & One Nights is one of the most extraordinary collections of stories in human literature, and the Institut du Monde Arabe's exhibition of the same name showcases 300 works that touch upon the character of Scheherazade and the stories that surround her. The fairytale-like quality of this exhibition makes it a perfect fit for the festive season.
This month is not necessarily all about magical markets, lights, concerts, and exhibitions. For something a bit different - and grittier! - check out the Street Art exhibition hosted (unexpectedly) by the Musée de la Poste. Here you'll find more than 70 works of urban art by pioneers as notable as Banksy, C215, Atlas, and Ludo, who use everything from canvas & walls to linoleum, metal & mailboxes. The themes are just as varied: the pixelation of the incredible Invaders series (my personal favourite!), media manipulation and the ubiquity of advertising, social criticism, portraits, poetry, and the legendary secret identity of Banksy himself.
8 :: 1-2 DEC :: LE WONDER VINTAGE MARKET @ LE CENTQUATRE
Christmas markets aren't the only markets happening in Paris in December. Vintage lovers can rejoice as Le Wonder Vintage Market takes place at the culture house, le Centquatre, during the first weekend of December. Designer furniture, vintage clothing (branded and non-branded), jewellery, handbags, records, and more from the Roaring 20s to the Punk 80s are on display. Here quality reigns over quantity as all exhibitors are specially selected for the merits of their goods.
9 :: 8, 13, AND 18-19 DEC :: STARS, FOALS, AND THE XX PLAY IN PARIS
7 :: 28 NOV-30 MAR :: STREET ART @ MUSEE DE LA POSTE
This month is not necessarily all about magical markets, lights, concerts, and exhibitions. For something a bit different - and grittier! - check out the Street Art exhibition hosted (unexpectedly) by the Musée de la Poste. Here you'll find more than 70 works of urban art by pioneers as notable as Banksy, C215, Atlas, and Ludo, who use everything from canvas & walls to linoleum, metal & mailboxes. The themes are just as varied: the pixelation of the incredible Invaders series (my personal favourite!), media manipulation and the ubiquity of advertising, social criticism, portraits, poetry, and the legendary secret identity of Banksy himself.
8 :: 1-2 DEC :: LE WONDER VINTAGE MARKET @ LE CENTQUATRE
Christmas markets aren't the only markets happening in Paris in December. Vintage lovers can rejoice as Le Wonder Vintage Market takes place at the culture house, le Centquatre, during the first weekend of December. Designer furniture, vintage clothing (branded and non-branded), jewellery, handbags, records, and more from the Roaring 20s to the Punk 80s are on display. Here quality reigns over quantity as all exhibitors are specially selected for the merits of their goods.
One of my favourite Canadian indie bands, Stars, comes to Paris to play at bohemian music house of La Maroquinerie in the 20e arrondissement (€21 per ticket). Whilst I will always have their 2003 track, Elevator Love Letter, playing on my iPod, I'm really looking forward to hearing the songs from their new and 6th album, The North. Five days later, English rock band, Foals, performs at the same venue (€25 per ticket). Beyond the 20e, you've got the English indie band, the xx, coming to play two shows on the 18th and 19th of December at the artsy Le Centquatre (€24-31 per ticket). (If shows are complets by the time you look at tickets, check out second-hand ticketing websites such as Viagogo as alternatives - though be prepared to pay a premium.)
10 :: 30 NOV-9 DEC :: FESTIVAL UN ETAT DU MONDE ... ET DU CINEMA @ FORUM DES IMAGES
This holiday season takes a more serious and thoughtful turn with the 4th edition of the Festival Un Etat du Monde ... et du Cinéma (State of the World ... and of Cinema Festival). This festival presents recent films from around the world which serve to illuminate important social, political, and human rights issues. Forty films, 9 previous, guest speakers, roundtables, and conferences offer the public the opportunity to take action on key issues that count. Notable films include the award-winning Barcelona-based 'Biutiful' by Alejandro Gonzalez Inárritu, the Colombian-American drama 'Maria Full of Grace' by Joshua Marston, and 'Promised Land' by Amos Gitaï.
11 :: 21 DEC-17 MAR :: ICE SKATING @ HOTEL DE VILLE
Last but not least, Hôtel de Ville opens the doors to its stunning outdoor skating rink for nearly 2 months in mid-December. Ice skate for free against the magnificent backdrop of this former French Renaissance hotel! Skates can be hired on site for €5 and there are supervisors present if you're planning to bring younger children. (Don't forget to bring gloves; they're mandatory!) Other wonderful places to ice skate in Paris are the indoor rink of the Belle Epoque-styled Grand Palais (the largest skating rink in France), the outdoor rink on the 1st floor of the Tour Eiffel, and the large plaza in front of Trocadéro. (For a complete listing of rinks in Paris, click here.)
** OTHER ONGOING EVENTS IN DECEMBER I'D RECOMMEND **
12 :: 10 OCT-28 JAN :: EDWARD HOPPER @ GRAND PALAIS
This is the first full retrospective in Paris of prominent American painter, Edward Hopper (1882-1967), whose realist paintings and prints gave expression to modern American life in the 20th century. Realism, romanticism, solitude, isolation, regret, resignation - these are the emotions that Hopper captures poignantly in his paintings and which the young adult, America, was herself working through in the 1900s. If you haven't already checked it out, the Hopper exhibition at the Grand Palais is an absolute must this winter.
13 :: 3 OCT-17 MAR :: VAN GOGH: REVES DU JAPON @ PINACOTHEQUE
There are two exhibitions being displayed simultaneously at the Pinacothèque that allow visitors to compare Van Gogh's oeuvre with that of Japanese artist, Hiroshige, and clearly demonstrates the influence of Japanese art on
the Impressionist movement.
14 :: 11 OCT-14 JAN :: RAPHAEL, LES DERNIERES ANNEES @ LOUVRE
In partnership with the Prado, the Louvre presents an exhibition of the historical works of Raphaël in Rome during the last 7 years of his life. This exhibition features around a hundred masterpieces, including paintings, drawings and tapestries, that have never been shown in France
15 :: 11 SEP-16 DEC :: HANNAH VILLIGER @ CENTRE CULTUREL SUISSE
The Centre Culturel Suisse de Paris is currently exhibiting snapshots taken by Swiss photographer, Hannah Villiger. An easy-to-use, lightweight Polaroid camera allowed Villiger the freedom to document her body, and produced prints that are all at once fragile, delicate, romantic, and mechanical. An easy quick stop to make if you are in the Marais.
**
With that, I conclude this list of events for my ideal social calendar in December. Happy holidays, everyone, and this Social Calendar will see you again in the New Year!
I must admit I miss the Christmas lights, and the window displays at places like the Galleries Lafayette. It's just not the same in malls here, and there are almost no lights downtown. That said, North Americans do go a bit over the top with house decorations and I like that!
ReplyDeleteThe Marchés de Noël can be a bit of a tourist trap in France, most products are overpriced and not very "authentic". Depends on the cities though.
That is one packed calendar and I'd have to say I would definitely want to do all of it if I was in Paris!
ReplyDeleteYes, maybe I should call it my Idealistic rather than Ideal Social Calendar. :) In general, I end up doing 80% of what's on the list though! (And often I have already done what's on the Other Ongoing Events I'd Recommend bit.)
ReplyDeleteTHANK YOU SO MUCH MILSTERS!! i wrote in caps because who knows what i'd be doing throughout December if I didn't see this guide from you!
ReplyDeleteYou're very welcome :)
ReplyDeleteCanadians are great with house decorations! My parents are just about to put up the tree and Christmas lights all over the house and I am very excited :)
ReplyDeleteThe pictures in this post are fantastic. Full of inspiration!
ReplyDeleteIncredible photos! I have never been to Paris in the winter, but can only imagine how the tone around the city would change completely! Hope to make it there someday!
ReplyDeletewww.livingthecleverlife.blogspot.com
Thank you! I'm happy to hear that it inspires you; that is the best compliment I can receive for my blog.
ReplyDeleteIt is an incredibly magical city in the winter. I hope you can manage to visit it during this season one day!
ReplyDeleteI so would love to visit! I have never been out of the US. If I ever had the chance it would be to Paris!
ReplyDelete